But surfing always had this horizon, this fear line, that made it
different from other things, certainly from other sports I knew. You
could do it with friends, but when the waves got big, or you got into
trouble, there never seemed to be anyone around.
"And the point is? The point is, when you have the perfect wave, the perfect anything, you go for it. You don't worry about what the shark has stuffed up his butt. I mean, there will always be sharks! But how often does a once-in-a-lifetime wave come along?" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tym35U-zEjA (de DESIERTO, Davidia Martín Saornil, en respuesta a esta marabillosa página del diario más bello)
"And the point is? The point is, when you have the perfect wave, the perfect anything, you go for it. You don't worry about what the shark has stuffed up his butt. I mean, there will always be sharks! But how often does a once-in-a-lifetime wave come along?" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tym35U-zEjA (de DESIERTO, Davidia Martín Saornil, en respuesta a esta marabillosa página del diario más bello)
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