xoves, 18 de xuño de 2015

Horas da verdade

But surfing always had this horizon, this fear line, that made it different from other things, certainly from other sports I knew. You could do it with friends, but when the waves got big, or you got into trouble, there never seemed to be anyone around.

William Finnegan 

 Surfear é como escribir. Escribir é como vivir.

2 comentarios:

  1. "And the point is? The point is, when you have the perfect wave, the perfect anything, you go for it. You don't worry about what the shark has stuffed up his butt. I mean, there will always be sharks! But how often does a once-in-a-lifetime wave come along?" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tym35U-zEjA (de DESIERTO, Davidia Martín Saornil, en respuesta a esta marabillosa página del diario más bello)